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Food columnist Orlando Murrin meets investment banker turned specialist meat man Andrew Moore

PUBLISHED: 16:52 21 November 2012 | UPDATED: 22:23 20 February 2013

Andrew Moore of Thoroughly Wild Meat Company

Andrew Moore of Thoroughly Wild Meat Company

Ten years ago, Andrew Moore was an exhausted investment banker, flogging his way into the City each morning from Hampshire. Now he runs one of Somerset's most exciting food businesses

Walk on the wild side


Food columnist Orlando Murrin meets investment banker turned specialist meat man Andrew Moore

Ten years ago, Andrew Moore was an exhausted investment banker, flogging his way into the City each morning from Hampshire. Now he runs one of Somersets most exciting food businesses, The Thoroughly Wild Meat, based at the Bath and West Showground near Shepton Mallet.
If you care about meat, Andrew is the butcher for you. Ive always enjoyed eating good food, he says. But found the general meat offering disappointing. I wanted to set up a butchery that would use all the traditional techniques and values that seemed to have been long since forgotten, and not cut any corners.
Andrews speciality is salt marsh lamb, grazed on estuaries such as the Bristol Channel. There are only a handful of farms in the UK grazing their lambs on salt marshes. The unique estuary plants effect the fat, it has a different structure from the fat in an ordinary lamb, leaving a leaner joint. It doesnt leave a greasy finish in the mouth. It is available from the end of June until Christmas, after which he usually has hogget (lamb over a year old) for sale. Saltmarsh lamb fans include Raymond Blanc and Mark Hix.


Originally pioneered in the 1950s on a small island in the Western Isles, Andrews beasts roam in a protected landscape on the Blackdown Hills

Andrew is widely acknowledged to have been one of the first to promote salt marsh lamb, and he has since added rare breeds to his menu. His triumph for 2012 - Luing Beef (a remarkably flavourful and succulent Highland-Shorthorn cross). Originally pioneered in the 1950s on a small island in the Western Isles, Andrews beasts roam in a protected landscape on the Blackdown Hills. Hung for at least 28 days to mature it is available in all the usual cuts, including sirloin and Andrews favourite fore rib. For Christmas, he will also be selling his home cured gammons (black hams soaked in vast vats of porter) as well as Norfolk Black and Bronze Turkeys and Geese.
You can find Thoroughly Wild at Bath farmers market most Saturdays, as well as the big agricultural shows during the season but most of the business is conducted over the internet (www.thoroughlywildmeat.co.uk). Beef boxes of various descriptions are available (always fresh,), as are half lambs (99 including delivery) and whole lambs (185), and every cut you can think of. The website is kept scrupulously up to date with what is available, but be warned: Andrew invariably sells out, so order now.



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